Are you sick of not having enough power to climb those hills or did those larger tires you installed suck the life out of your stock 4.0L engine? We offer an extensive dyno break in service for our 4.6L Jeep stroker engine to ensure that it is running properly before you install it into your Jeep.Using our two brand new Superflow SF-902 Dynamometers we will run your engine for a complete break in cycle monitoring all engine vitals over the course of a few hours. Once the break in cycle is complete will be change oil, inspect the oil filter and re torque all fasteners. At this point we will run the engine between 10-15 full rpm pulls while recording all engine vitals and looking for consistent power readings from run to run.
Engine Rebuild Kit Jeep 242 4.0 OHV L6 fits 1995 Wrangler Contains pistons, piston rings, rod bearings, main bearings, cam bearings, full gasket set, timing set, oil pump, expansion plug kit. Results 1 - 48 of 3579 - 2000-2001 JEEP CHEROKEE XJ MOTOR 4.0L ENGINE AMC REBUILT. Fits 2000 to 2006 Jeep Wrangler Equipped with 4.0L Engines.
We will provide you with a video of your engine running on the dyno and accompany it with copies of the dyno readings for your records. Customers are always welcome to visit our shop and see their engines run on the dyno and take them home the same day, this service is by appointment only. Pricing on Bare 4.6L Jeep long block for 1991-2006 fuel injected Jeeps:.
1991-1999 year models $4699. 2000-2006 year models $5049Included with Long Block:. All gaskets to finish install.
Oil pump and Pick Up ScreenRequired parts to properly run fuel injected engines 1991-2006:. 24lb fuel injector kit $375.
Joe Gibbs 15w50 Break In Oil $95Optional Parts to gain a little more power:. Performance tubular stainless steel header $425. 62mm Throttle Body 1991-2004 $295. Flow Kooler - High Flow Water Pump $125.
This article was originally found on. I'm reposting it because it's a helpful and informative article regarding the long-lived 4.0 engine found in many Jeeps, including the Wrangler.Over the years, Jeep's 4.0L engine underwent a few changes here and there, but nothing drastic. Despite the similarities, many still think of the '91-'95 XJs as the fastest six-cylinder-powered Jeeps in stock trim. For some reason, the '97-'01 XJs just don't feel as fast. Did they change the engine?
Did OBD2 kill the 4.0L? Probably not, because if you drive a '91-'95 YJ or a '97-'06 TJ, there's no appreciable difference.
![4.0l Jeep Engine 4.0l Jeep Engine](/uploads/1/2/5/5/125503083/919817792.jpg)
The older XJs probably just feel faster because they have less sound deadening material and some other heavy components. At least we think that's the case. And with that, let the myth-spinning begin.We've heard dozens of fish stories about how to make power with the venerable 4.0L Jeep engine, which parts are better, and which ones are wastes. Well, we've got around a half-million miles under our tires thanks to the trusty 4.0L Jeep inline-six. So for the fun of sharing. I decided to temporarily fix my 2002 4.0 and postpone the 6.0 ls swap till I have the 4000 readily available for the needed parts and to do the engine right. But since i had a cracked piston skirt (compression was still between 105-120 lbs on all cylinders) it required a chunk of disassembly.
Parts being replaced are: piston rod bearings, piston rings (obviously the bad piston), Fuel injector filters and seals. I port matched the gasket to the intake manifold, Factory 2 piece exhaust manifolds and head. I also ported and polished the head. Next i cut off the flat sections of aluminum on the intake as they are essentially heat catchers and we want a denser cooler charge of air into the cylinders. I wrapped the exhaust manifold also to control the heat against the intake and got a heat sleeve to go over the fuel rail to prevent the vapor lock i have heard about (was an early recall on the 2002 that i never experienced) as i am planning on not adding the recall heat shield that went between the intake ports. I am roughly under $400 including the machine work for the original valves.
In a week or 2 i should have it all reassembled and able to give a yay or nay to improved usability.Expectations are for a snappier engine throughout the rpm range as the exhaust seems pretty restricted, but may still be limited to the size of the valve/cam. I was good for 16 mpg before (with 4.10s and 35's, hypertech program, K&N cold air, Banks cat back, and possibly useless throttle body spacer).
Stock i was good for 20-21 mpg. The work you have done is all good, with one exception, I didn't see that you replaced the cam. I am currently doing a 4.0 rebuild myself and have done gobs of research into it. The stock head on a 4.0 has small exhaust ports which creates velocity, which is the part of the reason why the engine has good torque numbers especially at low rpm. When you port match and polish your head you almost have to replace the cam with a stage one performance cam to maintain the changes that you have made to the head. Good cam here,This cam does not require any computer changes.
Works in model years 1996 - 2006.Basically what happens, you have increased the flow characteristics of the head (CFM) but, by not changing the cam you are not giving the head valve lift to actually increase the CFM the head can now handle. Daystar was also really cool as one of them cracked when i tightened it and they sent one out right away.
I did also modify my install as those hood vents that come with 3 grommets per vent and the instructions are to drill 3 holes per vent so heat escapes and water doesnt fall in. I changed mine so one of them feeds my K&N cold air intake thats blocked off from the engine heat with home AC foam. I also made a piece of aluminum that hooks on the nose brace bar and prevents water from contacting the air filter. From a hose or something as it is protected with a plastic edging around the hole cut in the hood.